Maintain 8DKH, 420 calcium, 1400 magnesium Use Red Sea Blue Bucket salt and maintain 35ppt salinity Understand your city’s water quality so you get the correct RODI unit Start with the following recipe, and blend the Red Sea program into it when it makes sense to do so: My advice is do not add something to the tank you cannot test for or see measurable results. So, bringing this back to your questions. While they both are bacteria and part of a normal tank maturation, they’re highly undesirable because they are ugly. I dosed nitrate and phosphate to prevent cyano and dinos from growing. Both of my tanks were started from dry rock and for the first 6 month were nutrient limited. You may also find that due to the sterile ecosystem you are building, nitrate and phosphate don’t rise, and you have an ultra low nutrient system. The only food source during this time is the fish poop.
This is normal and part of the development cycles. Don’t be alarmed if your see Alk dropping even though there are no corals in the tank. It’s very likely that Alk, ca, and mg can be maintained with normal water changes.
During these algae phases, you’ll test weekly for nitrate, phosphate, alkalinity, calcium, and magnesium. It’s in these algae stages you’ll add clean up crew, like snails and another fish that grazes on algae. These different algae stages are adding life and bio diversity, establishing a solid bio filter and building bacteria. Over the next couple weeks, you’ll see different algae stages, from dusty brown, to green, to hair, to coralline. This is when I like to add one or two fish depending on tank size. When ammonia and nitrite hit zero, then you do a 90% water change. For example, starting with only dry rock, you’re going to go through the normal ammonia to nitrite to nitrate cycle, with lights off. Adding chemicals to force nature into your mold could end badly and your tank will be 20 gallons of fish soup. Assuming you start with dry rock, be sure to understand all the phases the tank will go through as it matures. I wouldn’t add (dose/supplement) anything to the tank until you feel good about what’s happening inside. RSCP salt cannot be stored as long as RSBB so if you build a water change station you’ll want a salt you can store longer. If you buy coral from a tank that is at 8DKH and place it in your tank with 11DKH (assuming RSCP salt) that’s quite a shock. When visiting your LFS, ask them what salt brand and what DKH do they target for their tanks. Do you want your tank to run closer to natural sea levels, like 7DKH, 400 Calcium, 1350 magnesium? If so, then switch to Red Sea Blue Bucket.
#Red sea colors pro pro
Red Sea Coral Pro salt is good, but give thought to your target levels long term. What the recipes do not cover in great detail are the time and maturation steps required by your tank, and recognizing good vs bad. Greetings the Red Sea recipes are great my advice is to push the brakes and slow down just a bit.
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